Bali doesn’t only have beautiful tourism object and unique tradition. That island also has beautiful textile or cloth. It can become to be your beautiful handicraft. Those cloth are the Balinese authentic cloth, and you only find it in Bali. Those are 3 kinds.
Endek textile is beginning to grow on since 18th century, when Dalem Waturenggong Empire was being king in Gelgel Klungkung. It grows fast in around Gelgel, especially in Sulang Village. The growing is very faster when Indonesia got their independent. Sulang Village is being the biggest industry of Endek Textile in Bali until today.
When Endek Cloth appeared, the workers make it with ikat system (traditional ways to make textile) and they use ATBM “Alat Tenun Bukan Mesin” (unmachine tool looms). Why is the price of Endek so expensive? Because the workers use manual system, so it takes too long time for finishing only one Endek Cloth. But now, the industry of textile uses machine and make price of Endek Textile is cheaper.
Endek Cloth has so many motif, such use the natural motif, the animal motif, the Balinese puppet motif, and the sacred motif. The sacred motif must use in temple, so why it’s called by the sacred motif and some motif of Endek Textile is only allowed to be used by king. Don’t worry if you want to buy endek cloth you can choose the other motif.
The Balinese Batik
The Balinese Batik provides showing another venue the artistic excellence of the Balinese people. Their beautiful designs, inspired by religious mythologies, spread throughout the world. Originally stimulated by Javanese motifs, dominated by wayang and other mythological characters, a contemporary batik artist has also experienced artistic development that parallels that of paintings. Modern batik artists express themselves through various subjects, from objects of nature such as birds or fish to daily activities such as cremation ( ngaben ) procession or tourist attractions as well as religious and mythological stories, accompanied by modern interpretation.
Gringsing cloth is the authentic handmade cloth which the process is uses double ikat technique, requiring over a long enough periods of 2-5 years. Tenun ikat is woven from strands of the weft or warp threads which previously tied up and dipped in natural dye. Gringsing was taken from Balinese language, “gring” mean illness, “sing” mean not, so gringsing mean not illness (healthy). It was defined by the bad power or averts the evil, so Gringsing cloth was used in many ceremonies, like weeding ceremony, tooth filling ceremony. Tenganan societies believe the power of gringsing cloth and there is one the mythology of Gringsing cloth. The Indra God was impressed with the nature of Tenganan Village, so he teach the women to weave and give many amazing the motifs like sun, moon, star, flower and animal.
You find Gringsing cloth only in Bali. According the proficient of technique textile, the double ikat woven only find in 3 place, those are Japan, India and Indonesia ( Tenganan). The process to make Gringsing cloth is still traditional way (handmade). The process until 2-5 years, it is not surprising if produce high-quality woven cloth and very expensive. It uses the natural material and natural dye. Yarns derived from choices of cotton, the cotton has one seed and only find in Nusa Penida, finished spinning the yarn will be soaked in hazelnut oil, immersion a minimum of 40 days and can be up to 1 year and a soak oil replaced every 24-29 days, because the longer yarn soaked then the yarn will be more soft and strong, complete this process followed by staining.
For the staining, the color was taken from the nature. The yellow color was made by hazelnut oil, the red color was made by midrib of Kepundung tree and mix with the root of Sunti tree, the black color was made by Taum tree. Yarns that are ready to be woven into a cloth, which is the long side is called “pakan” and the width side called “lungsi”, to be more tightly the yarns are encouraged to use bone bat, the next process is bound by Juru Ikat. Arrangement of yarn, dyeing and binding on the two sides of the feed and lungsi it is called double ikat technique, if the regular weaving only on one side, this is what caused the gringsing woven fabric has a different value.