Tenganan Gringsing Cloth

The Balinese Traditional Double Ikat Technique and Using Traditional Coloring Method

Tenganan is the place of Bali Aga, the Balinese native people. This place is famous with many amazing cultures such as makare – karean or perang pandan, the sacred buffalo, the unique house architecture, still elements the traditional rules, and gringsing cloth. Gringsing cloth is the original cloth from Bali.

Gringsing Cloth’s Information

Gringsing cloth is the authentic handmade cloth which the process is uses double ikat technique, requiring over a long enough periods of 2-5 years. Tenun ikat is woven from strands of the weft or warp threads which previously tied up and dipped in natural dye. Gringsing was taken from Balinese language, “gring” mean illness, “sing” mean not, so gringsing mean not illness (healthy). It was defined by the bad power or averts the evil, so Gringsing cloth was used in many ceremonies, like weeding ceremony, tooth filling ceremony. Tenganan societies believe the power of gringsing cloth and there is one the mythology of Gringsing cloth. The Indra God was impressed with the nature of Tenganan Village, so he teach the women to weave and give many amazing the motifs like sun, moon, star, flower and animal.

Using Traditional Coloring Method

You find Gringsing cloth only in Bali. According the proficient of technique textile, the double ikat woven only find in 3 place, those are Japan, India and Indonesia ( Tenganan). The process to make Gringsing cloth is still traditional way (handmade). The process until 2-5 years, it is not surprising if produce high-quality woven cloth and very expensive. It uses the natural material and natural dye. Yarns derived from choices of cotton, the cotton has one seed and only find in Nusa Penida, finished spinning the yarn will be soaked in hazelnut oil, immersion a minimum of 40 days and can be up to 1 year and a soak oil replaced every 24-29 days, because the longer yarn soaked then the yarn will be more soft and strong, complete this process followed by staining.

For the staining, the color was taken from the nature. The yellow color was made by hazelnut oil, the red color was made by midrib of Kepundung tree and mix with the root of Sunti tree, the black color was made by Taum tree. Yarns that are ready to be woven into a cloth, which is the long side is called “pakan” and the width side called “lungsi”, to be more tightly the yarns are encouraged to use bone bat, the next process is bound by Juru Ikat. Arrangement of yarn, dyeing and binding on the two sides of the feed and lungsi it is called double ikat technique, if the regular weaving only on one side, this is what caused the gringsing woven fabric has a different value.

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